Eleanor and Adrian - Etna 2018

Happy 29th anniversary, Mrs.B, I hope you like the tinned pie and Smash! We've been out shopping today, and are finishing up with a Chinese. Went for a look round Vua Etnea and Elephant Square, lots of t shirts for El to browse. I lunched on an excellent kebab, you can't beat a bit of local street cuisine!

Up early to move the car to an all day car park, then to Piazza Stesicoro to meet Tony at 9. It's now twenty past and we are still waiting for two people! El managed to guess the nationality of our latercomers, with whom our leaders shared "the most special of relationships", clearly not special enough to apologise for keeping everone else waiting. However, pleasanteries were soon over, and we set off towards Mongibello in Tony's quattro by quattro, and it was interesting to witness Italian driving from within. I use the word "witness" deliberately. He made much use of the horn, little of the brake, and none of the indicators or mirror, and went through many red lights. The Italian flag is red, green and white - interesting that white is the only colour they actually use! First stop was at a lava field. Like a Martian landscape, lava all cracked and broken, and very sharp! We then went up a crater - to get there we walked through a lava field - weird n...

Had a lazy morning, did a bit of El's book. Afternoon went to Etnaland waterpark to keep cool. Best ride was in rubber inner tubes just floating along for half an hour. Excellent pool at the end with 3 girls singing and dancing, exhorting the assembled crowd to higher levels of water-based apathy. Give it to them, they tried really hard. And then some "$^@#£* stole Eleanor's sliders (flip flops for the older reader) so that ended all Anglo-Italian goodwill as far as she was concerned. I just hope none of them were listening! Found a restaurant for tea called "Eat Pizzeria", so we did - excellent. You can't go wrong with anything called a "Diavola" and a large beer!

Up early to collect ferry ticket, and after quick 20 minute crossing we arrived on Sicily. Water was very clear and a rich deep blue. Arrived in Catania at 12.30, and met Luca who let us into our grand appartment - a bathroom each, you know... Poor Fabio picked up his only injury so far when just as we were unloading at our final parking space after 2000kms, a dopy old bloke opened his door onto El's, (which was shut) leaving a nasty scratch. He helpfully tried walking off, ignoring me and then spitting on his hand to clean it (didn't work, surprisingly!) before I got his name, photo, rank and number, including driving license and blood group, damned if Enterprise are fleecing me for that one! Glad that's off my chest! Apartment is superb, with a huge supermarket just round the corner, and an Indian deli right behind which sold ginger beer, a commodity for which I have scoured Continental Europe in vain since 1977!

Long day with a lot of driving - found our way down the cliff and back up over the mountains to the A45 motorway, then headed south, running from ankle to the big toe on the end of the foot of Italy. Amazing drive, lots of cliffs/tunnels and scary bridges. Stayed in Hotel b and b Around The World, which was nice. We were in New York. We could see Sicily from the balcony, and every vertical bit of cloud was attributed to Etna, (still some 150k away!)

If you remember the castle stormed by Richard Burton and Co. in "Where Eagles Dare", you'll have an idea of the vertiginous eerie atop a huge clifftop precipice which the people of Tortorella call 'casa'. The Aygo (now re-christened Fabio by El) nearly died on the way up of over clutch/gear exertion, although the many landslide piles on the road provided an interesting counterpoint to the places where the 'road' had simply fallen down the adjacent chasm. And it didn't improve when we arrived - the streets were only just passable with both wing-mirrors folded flat, so Fabio inched along like a scolded poodle with his ears by his side, thankfully encouraged with hilarity by some local crones. We gave up and saw sense, and parked by the town hall, overlooking an exceptional view: The place we stayed was hidden down a maze of tiny alleys and cut-throughs. La Posada de Juan y Marisol ("The Posada of Juan and Marisol") was a 3 storied, dar...

I thought driving in Naples was bad, till I got to Positano. I mean, who wouldn't be glad to leave a city alive where driving is such a "machissimo" activity that they charge €75 as ridicule tax for parking for 3 days? - "Eh, Mario, see the Englishman in front? He likes to keep his wheels on the ground round bends and slows down when people are using pedestrian crossings - do you see?! (mild snigger)" - "You are right, Pepe, he has clearly not yet learned our Italian driving motto - 'morte o gloria' (high pitched derisive chortle)" - "I know Mario, let's teach this spineless "ragazzino" by actually attaching our braces to his boot, then overtaking him with a lorry coming towards us, and cutting in front of him suicidally just as we reach the traffic lights! (manic guffawing from both)" - "OK, Cool idea man! Pepe, what are traffic lights?" - "Those red and green decorative ones, Mario, they've...

Started today with a crazy bus tour of Naples - the city is clearly not rich, in fact we saw some very poor areas, the roads are shocking by British standards, and graffiti is everywhere - but do you know what? Having hated its stupid motorway, bumpy roads, inescapable "carte only" peage traps, thunderstorms, torrential rain, extortionate parking rates, lift charges, and the general air of "aaaaaaaaggghhhh!!", I actually began to love the place! Its got character - name another city with its own volcano? See what I mean? -  it's food is really the best we've had, and the cheapest, its easy to get round - the Metro currently only has 3 stops. We saw amazing views of the ancient harbour, parks, gardens, the National Archaeological museum, the Capo di Monte museum (the old trout would haved loved that!).   After the bus tour we went for another pizza, then went to the Underground Naples tour, as found and recommended by Mrs.B: Click the link! ...

After another excellent Chinese in a tiny cafe for tea last night, set off early this morning to the other side of Vesuvius to find Pompei. Still incredible to see what is left, it is eery. And Vesuvius sits there on the horizon, looking small and innocent: There are many painted walls and mosaic floors intact, and the houses and gardens seem insome cases untouched, as if everyone just walked away one day. There are a few exhibits, mostly of amphora, but there are a few casts of the spaces left  by bodies which were temporarily encased in hot ash: Finished today off with a pizza made by the 2016 World Pizza Champion (or so she claimed!) It actually was very nice, 3 drinks and 2 huge pizzas for €15, and they even let us move inside when the thunderstorm got really bad!

Left Ostia at 10.00, and headed South, passing very close to Monte Casino.  During WW2 a dreadful attack took place on the ancient cliff top monastery by the Allies, who, instead of weeding out German observers, killed many local civilians hiding there to get away from danger. Arrived Naples at about 4, singing along to both 'We Will Rock You' and 'Desparsito' by a certain Mr. J. Beiber, during a massive thunderstorm, after storming the tele-peage after going the wrong way. (One sign, 10 feet before the junction just isn't enough - ok?!) By comparison, Rome traffic was ok, but Naples was very hectic  downright bloody lethal, and the roads were probably flatter in Roman times. Left the car to some suspicious looking gentlemen in a car park - parking here is difficult, so we shelled out €25 for "la notturna", i.e. 24 hours! Hotel room is excellent, with a multicolour light show shower! Oh I did lather colourfully! On 5th floor, it costs 10c to use the li...

After a good rest and quiet day yesterday, we got up v. early for the train and metros into Rome. Found St.Peters v. easily, but still huge crowds, so we are not going in, but are heading to the Trevi fountain, where if you throw a coin in, the legend says you will return - worked for me! Here's proof of the answer to the eternal question - does the Pope have a balcony?! Made our way over the Tiber to the Pantheon (fabulous cold fountain!), Piazza Novona and Trevi fountain, where we are now having pizza and coke (El) and weak hospital grade Earl Grey tea for me - this weather is too hot for eating! El in Piazza Novona Off now to the Forum and Coliseum to see the remains. If this heat continues I may become an exhibit!

2 hour drive to Ostia which is the ancient port of Rome. Quite run down with many potholes in the roads. Spent afternoon and evening in hotel just cooling off and relaxing - found a Carrefour, for snacks.

Only an hour to Grosetto, so we left bags in the hotel, and went for a look round Siena. Found two lovely old ladies in the post office, and El bought a really stylish bag in a posh shop, getting the cool gear ready for college! Went for a snack in the Siena Music School - coffee and Siena cake (v moist fruit cake with whole almonds in - it was "proper nice", as the youth would say!) Headed for Grosetto about 3 pm, temperature in the hills reached 39°! Arrived at Fulvia's house about 5, whereupon she introduced us to her friend Barbara, and made coffee. Fulvia had emailed me back in May to thank me for booking with her, she was simply adorable, and even better, spoke fluent English! Grosetto itself was nice, although bizarrely we were followed by 5 ladies on stilts dressed as Pirates of the Caribbean (the ladies, not the stilts!), accompanied by Hans Zimmer's epic soundtrack.

Despite shocking reviews and dire warnings, Enterprise Milan were lovely, and we picked up our new car, a black Aygo - what a superbly nippy machine! I see why you love yours, Claire! Found our way through and out of Milan, with no problems other than my missing a few turns, which I honestly thought were peoples' driveways, they looked so small! Arrived in Siena mid-afternoon, long climb up to the walled town. You only are allowed to drive inside the walls for 40 mins, so we dropped the bags, then I went with Frederico to leave the car at the bottom. Accommodation was excellent, entering via a large terracotta tiled stairway on the 1st floor are the rooms - big, air con, the lot, with any number of extra freebies! If anyone rooming in future in 103 ever wonders where the complimentary slippers went, I have my suspicions..... Siena is beautiful, one of my favourite places - came here with the old trout in '82, (n.b. you can work out who that was as I only met the present Mr...

Found our way into central Milan via the underground, came out of underground to this view of the Duomo (Milan Cathedral) which was fantastic! To the left was the Galeria Vittorio Emanualle, containing many posh shops: Nice floor! Had lunch then went up to the roof of the Duomo, via the lift, both for free (instead of €35) as my wobbly walk seemed to confer upon me celebrity (or pitiable) status, as we were ushered by a burly security guard with a "Special Ticket" to a section clearly reserved for cripples/social misfits/those clearly unvisited by Madame Fashion.  After clarifying to the junior functionary on duty in my best Italianglo-Saxon that: "No, it didn't happen during the War." "No, I have no certificate to prove that I am crippled beyond imagination, I'm here because your big friend sent me." "Yes, we would like to see the Duomo." "Indeed you are correct, my daughter clearly does have s...

Arrived at the station, Nice-Ville early, and got the train at 2.15 to Milan. We were in 1st Class, partly because this was cheaper (why??) than 2nd, and mainly because Eleanor booked this bit, and she doesn't like to mix it with rough, poor types who frequent 2nd class. Went along the coast, via Monte Carlo/Monaco to Genoa, then north for the one and only time on this trip except the flight home!) to Milan at 6.50p.m. on the dot! Architecture is big in Italy - Milano Centrale station was designed by the same guy who built the San Siro stadium, and is the biggest station in Europe by volume! Found our way to Hotel Arno, with the pokiest lift yet, 4 floors up in a filing cabinet is no joke! Went out for a lovely Chinese at Su Garden, excellent food!

Left Toulon early, headed for Nice, where we dropped the suitcase off at the hotel  before going to the airport to drop Everard off, bus back to Nice centre. Now outside a cafe cooling down, waiting for room at 3pm. Very nice here, not too hot. (Avignon hit the headlines yesterday reaching 37°!) Went out for salmon pasta and pizza Napoli at El's favourite Italian. Saw these 2 brilliant violinists on Promenade des Anglais: and later saw the total lunar eclipse, with a red moon, from the beach.

Headed into Nimes to see the Coliseum - last seen 41 years ago! Lovely breakfast in the main square, then had a look at the cathedral then the Coliseum. Went next to another highlight from my 3 weeks here on school French exchange in 1977 - the Pont du Gard. Even more impressive than I remember! Will come back again, and swim in the Gardon next time! Long drive to Toulon, via Carrefour in Avignon pont is still not finished.  Arrived Toulon about 6.30, really interesting hotel, a couples own apartment, with 3 bedrooms! Had pizza and lasagna at excellent cafe on the docks, right outside the French Naval Headquarters.